Classic Climbs in the Brenta Group
Three historic and panoramic climbing routes set against the dramatic backdrop of the Brenta Dolomites. Ideal itineraries for those who love traditional climbing, logical lines and the authentic atmosphere of a vertical alpine environment.
Brenta Group – Corna Rossa, Detassis Route
Type: Classic climb
Difficulty: Upper IV
Elevation gain: 250 m
Time required: 3 hours
Route description
The route starts along the edge, with a direct initial section that after about 15 metres leads to a short traverse to the left. This reaches the first belay, from where the line continues diagonally to the right towards the characteristic roof on the edge. Once past the roof, a comfortable ledge offers a brief pause. The climb continues on the wall just left of the edge, which is followed for about 50 metres to the base of a distinct dark, vertical dihedral. The final section rises through a reddish dihedral beneath small overhangs, then exits left to reach the summit with ease. An elegant, logical and highly scenic route.
Castelletto di Mezzo – Sybilla Route
Type: Classic climb
Difficulty: Upper III with IV at the start
Elevation gain: 200 m
Time required: 2h30
Notes: Comfortable and well-protected belays
Route description
From Rifugio Tuckett, the path crosses the scree slopes at the base of the walls, reaching the mouth of the gully that borders the Castelletto di Mezzo on its western side. The start is located to the right of the gully, next to the first cemented piton. Climb about 20 metres to the piton with ring, then continue diagonally to the right to a good belay. From here, the route heads towards a yellow dihedral (piton) that leads to a ledge. Follow the ledge to the right, rounding a corner, until reaching the base of the main dihedral. The dihedral offers continuous, enjoyable climbing on good holds, exposed but never extreme. Higher up, a wedged boulder closing the chimney is bypassed on the left, leading to the crest. A true Brenta classic, perfect for climbers seeking a varied and rewarding traditional route.
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